A Day at the Races....in Bahrain

Alright, race fans, admit it. You had no idea the country of Bahrain has a racing program. Indeed there is a racing season here on this tiny Gulf island. The season runs from early winter until the end of April. So please read on to learn more about a day at the races that, while on a smaller scale than nearby United Arab Emirates, still manages to "fill the fix" of the homesick race fan.

We are attending the second most prestigious date on the Bahrain racing calendar. (The most "famous" day falls in late March which, alas, is when Erley Turk plans to be in Dubai to cover the World Cup.) Happily we have received VIP passes which not only allow us to park practically next to the clubhouse, but also permit us to sit in a special section. Along the drive from the main road to the race course we see soldiers patrolling on a nearby "sand-mountain"; what are we to make of these initial impressions? Granted there is always a bit of intrigue when it comes to horse racing, but are the hosts expecting a Dick Francis-sized scheme to befall our outing? Once in the clubhouse we are able to get a feeling of the overall layout.

The Course Layout

The beautiful grass course is about 1 1/2 miles around. The horses race in a clockwise direction around a flat terrain that is rather shaped like a "triangular pear." The clubhouse and stands are in the bottom left-hand corner of the course while the spacious walking ring/paddock are in the back of the structure. There are roughly four seating sections. One houses what look to be families (wooden seats); another, which is designated "family section," is deserted; we sit in the VIP section with comfortable upholstered seats; and the V V IP&P (very, very important princes and people) section has, get this, roomy sofas. Somewhere one can get refreshments. If you are a VVIP&P, however, a tuxedoed waiter will serve you a cold drink midway thorough the afternoon. Later they are served by a couple of arabs, that seem to be semi-VIPs, who pour out coffee from fancy brass pots (called dallahs) into small cups.

The Parade Ring

Now, to the racing itself. Amazingly, the first race is called the Newmarket Stakes. Sixteen horses line up for the handicap. A glance into the program shows that, while the runners may be totally unfamiliar, they are sired by such names as Woodman, Danehill, Storm Bird and Bering. We choose the Woodman-sired horse who leads for nearly every step of the 1 3/8 mile race...except the last where he is caught by Irish-bred Mufeer (by Groom Dancer.) The winner returns to an enthusiastic chorus of cheers and applause by the non-VIPs and maybe some light clapping by the VIPs (how else am I to describe the two classes: commoners and royalty?) It is nice to see this reaction (as opposed to some USA tracks where signs like 'vulgar language is not permitted' try to contain the abuse sometimes showered upon losing jockeys.)

Well, since Erley Turk will not be around for Bahrain Derby Day, the next best thing is the Bahrain Oaks. Six runners line up for the 1 1/4 mile event with only one of them ever even having won a race. Huh? Anyway, the sole winner finishes second to Firzan who is listed as being sired by Be My Guest. All well and fine except the fillies are supposedly "local-bred;" when did Be My Guest ever visit Bahrain? A local horse of the same name? a 'ringer?' or just more intrigue? Unfortunately, Erley Turk is not privy to the racetrack gossip and rumours.

The Racecard

There is a delay before the 3d race goes off as the day's Guest of Honor shows up: His Excellency the Crown Prince Sh. Hamad bin Isa al-Khalifa. (Maybe that is who the aforementioned soldiers are protecting.) After much greetings and kissing, the Crown Prince and his entourage take their seats, er- make that take their sofas, and race 3 takes place. Bahrain being an Arab country, it is only natural that there be a race for Arabian horses. These horses have names, however, like Al Hamdaany 901, Al Jellaby 945 and Al Hamdanieh 914 which suggest they should be listed in a star registry rather than the stud book.

The race is exciting and for the third race in a row our selection has the temerity to finish a close second. For the record, the winner was sired by Kuheilaan A'afas 729 and his dam was Al Hamdanieh 721. In between races it is fun to go watch the horses being saddled up in the paddock. The setting sun, palm trees and sand-mountains mixed with horses and jockeys make for a lovely and colorful scene.

Back in our seats we see that the racecourse is laid out in a rather barren area. Scrub and brush comprise the infield (along with a small lake) and the outer regions. Cloudy and hazy weather nearly obscure Bahrain's highest, well actually its only mountain, Jebal Ad Dukan which roughly translated means Smokey Mountain.