The Joy of Horses
July 2004
Riding in Portugal - the Classical Way
by Sue Wingate

“You just have to come out to Portugal and ride with Jorge” Christine insisted. Having professed a special interest in Iberian horses the opportunity to actually ride them seemed too good to miss – if somewhat daunting! Before long I found that I had agreed to do just that and was preparing to join her on what was for me a journey into the unknown…

Christine had already followed Jorge Pereira through a succession of training centres and was effusive about his teaching skills. Now apparent he had set up his own private centre at his home in Biscainho and had opened his doors to anyone seriously interested in making progress with their riding.

Details of the location, facilities and accommodation were all rather hazy at the time and I really had no idea what to expect. Arriving at Lisbon we collected our hire car and braved the rush house traffic; and, it has to be admitted, the less than patient Portuguese drivers, as we made our way out of the city.

It is all so familiar now, but I recall my first impression of the area – the vast expanse of the Tagus to be crossed; the flat rice fields bordering the great river; first glimpses of small bands of mares grazing those lush pastures, the distinctive cattle too… As we headed east the terrain became more undulating and the vast estates of cork oak trees bordered the roads and skirted as they were by wide sand tracks, I couldn’t help thinking of the ideal riding opportunities they presented and had visions of myself astride a stunning Lusitano horse cantering rhythmically along them, but sad to relate, this is one dream I have yet to realise.

A partial view of the attractive outdoor school and stable lock
Jorge’s ‘picadeiro’ is located in the village of Biscainho approximately 45 minutes drive from Lisbon, en route to Coruche, the local town. This is real Portugal and in all my visits there I am relieved to say I have never seen a postcard within a 20 mile radius since tourists seem to have found no particular reason to visit the area. Turning up the dirt road to the picadeiro is always a moment of delight – even if the road does feel like a very long cattle grid… On arrival be prepared to be welcomed by Jorge’s wife Antonia and by any number, not to mention great variety, of dogs and children! The self catering accommodation is across the courtyard from the family residence and is most attractive, decorated in traditional Portuguese style. There is a small garden and pool and a terrace ideal for a shady lunch or enjoying a glass of wine on warm evenings whilst watching the sun disappear behind the trees and, if you are lucky, listening to the nightjars with their distinctive call at twilight. Muffled sounds of horses float across from the stables and there is no more peaceful way to end the day.

Continues........

© Sue Wingate - The Joy of Horses 2004