Far more basic, though still very comfortable, are working ranches, ideal for those who know their way around a Western saddle. But be prepared to repair, round-up - and, yes, even castrate - cattle, and sleep wrangler fashion beneath the stars. There's one big difference with joining an actual cattle drive - 250 head of prime cows, calves and bulls to be precise to be steered - what a highly appropriate word that is - to their summer pasture. By the time you've chased, cajoled and chivvied them along, in much the same way as they have for the past century, you've truly won your spurs. Five days on, the warning by cattle rancher Bill Davis "this is not just a walk" ringing in my ears all were safely grazing in the Big Sky country of Montana, close to Bozeman. All thanks to Montana High Country Cattle Drives, a consortium of cattle families who had urged us on amid whoops of "git on cow" or "move it red", occasionally distracted by having to chase an obstinate mum whose calf had once again gone walkies only to be deftly put back into line by those riding drag.

At one point the cattle were strung out for close on a mile, the herd divided into bunches with cow calf pairs happily trailing along almost in single line, the view from the big Western saddle mainly being one of bovine bottoms of varying hues - and cleanliness. But more than once my chest filled with cowboy pride as Chad, my reliable Tennessee Walking horse, used well rehearsed skills to sprint after a lively youngster who's missing mum. And there's always a professional wrangler around to help.

There's time, too, to take stock of your fellow riders, a strong sense of camaraderie, symbolised round the campfire when cowboy poet, writer and photographer Roy Pace wryly recited "Life out on the Western frontier was really rough. Just to survive, the pioneers had to be pretty tough. But some of us like to relive the days of the early West. However we just want the fun and forget all the rest."

He's right, of course. Listen to Kelly Flynn, a wisecracking member of the Flynn clan, with his carefully researched stories and you quickly realise that here was a region where Indian wars were fought, mining fortunes won and lost and where horse breakers and cattlemen coped with extremes in climate. Little Big Man, starring Dustin Hoffman, and Return to Lonesome Dove, with Robert Duvall, were shot among the rolling hills and valleys. A River Runs Through It was filmed around Bozeman where Gary Cooper was born. And parts of The Horse Whisperer were located close by in Livingston.

And if you want to know more about the flora, boss man Ted Flynn will explain the role of plants picked up along the way, from the grey green sagebrush and the startling brightness of the high desert blooms to the gentler hues of the wild flowers which dot the lush valley meadows. But wherever you are, and whatever Western ways take your fancy, I'll bet my bottom dollar you'll land up feeling six feet tall in the saddle...

Continues........